GASTRONORMOUS

On New Year’s Eve last year a dear friend of mine pulled me aside to indulge in a bottle of Moët Rosé he had stashed away for the special midnight toast. Our palates, anesthetized from drinking $4 Andre all evening (hey, we were broke students), were awakened by the refreshingly smooth and crisp Moët. What was his explanation for this unusual display of extravagance? “Bringing in the New Year is a special occasion worthy of a special drink; we needed something unique and out of the norm.” I will be hosting my own New Year’s Eve party this year and, per this great advice, have opted to skip Champagne all together for a bit more standout sparkling Argentine Malbec.
Though toasting 2009 with red wine may seem blasphemous, North Western Argentina’s festive and enjoyable Terra Sparkling Malbec is a delicious alternative to Champagne’s predictable midnight appearance. Produced in the Mendoza region of Argentina, famous for its bold and delicious Malbecs, Terra puts a vibrant twist on this South American favorite. Filled with mixed dark berries like blueberries, blackberries, and currants, Terra is a bold red that has transformed into an undeniably light aperitif thanks to the addition of bubbles. Terra is great with hors d’oeuvres and strong enough to hold up to heavier dishes. There is a touch of black pepper spice at first taste, and a slightly tannic finish that pairs deliciously with prosciutto, salami, and jamón Serrano. Terra is a creative and original alternative to Champagne, and sure to be a memorable conversation starter: “Sparkling red wine, anyone?”

Available at Astor Wines & Spirits for $9.99

A blend of Zinfandel and red Rhône grapes, this drinkable red is as straightforward as it gets. Best described as uncomplicated, Sonoma County has created a clean blend free from the pretension associated with many of the higher-end reds produced in the area. Marietta 47′s appetizing fruit notes are bold enough for even the most novice drinker to appreciate, and a high drinkability factor has made this bottle one of the region’s top sellers.

While many highly developed European table wines have strong acidic and tannic qualities, this prototypical Cali blend is sweet and thoroughly delightful. Off-dry and midweight, this wine, like most of Marietta’s bottlings, is extremely well balanced. Upon opening, a dark fruit and berry bouquet is immediately evident. The fruit-forward nose is a jammy combination of blueberry pie, raspberry sorbet, and apple strudel. An elevated presence of oak lends this bottle its “baked” essence, imparting flavors of hickory and pecan pie perfect for holiday sipping.

It is this blend’s mild sweetness and soft tannins that make it a party favorite. Because Marietta 47 is both pleasant tasting and fairly priced, it would make a great addition to any Thanksgiving menu. Your guests can enjoy this sippable red as they nosh on appetizers, and it will grow even brighter when paired with buttery dishes like mashed potatoes. Only a sweet and truly balanced red like Marietta 47 could ever hold up to Grandma’s candied yams.

Happy Thanksgiving!

Available in New York at Astor Wines & Spirits for $11.99

Sweet wines don’t receive the same respect as other varietals, but they can be as complex, delicious, and deserving of admiration as their dry counterparts. Made by halting fermentation halfway through the wine making process—before all the sugar is converted to alcohol—these wines stay sweet because they are essentially part juice. A pleasing touch of sugary juice makes “off-dry” wine a wonderful start to any party, perfectly quaffable as your guests arrive.

St. Urbans-hof is a low-alcohol German Riesling with a fresh and appealing tartness. Like most German Rieslings, St. Urbans-hof is noticeably sweet at first sip. Comparable in taste to Moscato, this honey-forward cousin to the Italian bubbly is very smooth. A distinctly light body gives this bottle a very airy feel, though without the bubbles. As a rule, alcohol is what gives wine its body: the higher the alcohol content, the more viscous and syrupy-textured the wine. A great analogy is to think of the body of a wine on a similar scale as milk. For example, one percent, whole milk, and heavy cream all share the same flavor qualities, but its the thickness and richness of the liquid that varies. German Riesling is the skim milk of wine, and St. Urbans-hof is no exception.

The sweetness of this bottle is complemented by a citrus-like tartness, creating a fresh and breezy wine. St. Urbans-hof has moderate notes of granny smith apples and lemons upon opening, with a bouquet that mellows out to show softer white peach and melon qualities as you sip. High levels of acidity make this wine undeniably refreshing and a bit less sugary-tasting than other sweet Rieslings you may have tried. Because St. Urbans-hof is both light and sweet, it is ideal for pairing with similarly light and sweet dishes—this would be perfect with pre-turkey crudité, fruit, and cheese, or after dinner with a slice of spiced pumpkin pie.

Available in New York at Astor Wines & Spirits for $12.99

Pelaverga, Vigna di Terre Rosse – 2004
The Pelaverga is a little-known grape cultivated in the Piedmont region of Northern Italy, and is one of the region’s relatively affordable hidden treasures. Famous for its dark Nebbiolo grapes, Northern Italy’s Piedmont region is most closely associated with tannic wines like Barolo. Generally speaking, cottony tannins in any wine are produced by the grape skins. Because Pelaverga is a thin-skinned grape, these wines are not tannic, but uniquely light, fresh, and balanced for Piedmontese reds.

Pelaverga wine is typically clear ruby-red in color, has scents of tart cherries with notes of peppercorn, and possesses a lightness and restrained acidity atypical for a wine of this high alcohol content. Resolved tannins and little acidity make this wine perfect for sipping or pairing with appetizers, light meats, and fish.

Vigna di Terre Rosse displays all these classic varietal characteristics. Vigna di Terre Rosse is shy upon opening, with appealing grapefruit aromas, but within a couple of hours reveals complex and vivid notes of strawberries and cider. This label is fruit-forward, spicy, and has a strong and tart aroma. Perfectly juicy, with hints of clay and minerality following on the finish.

Trying Vigna di Terre Rosse’s Pelaverga reinforces the remarkable breadth and variety of Italian wines. The color of this wine alone, a transparent red reminiscent of cranberry juice, is delicate and distinct. Remarkably airy and smooth, with a thin mouth-feel, this uncommon wine is worthy of any taster’s attention.

[$19.99 at Astor Wines & Spirits]

My fiancée Tara and I had planned a wonderful fall outing Saturday before last. We would bike over to Prospect Park, and then head over to the 10th anniversary Target First Saturday party at the Brooklyn Museum.

On the way over to the park, our stomachs insisted we take a detour. We hadn’t eaten since breakfast and it was now nearing three o’clock. As I contemplated that eternal question, “Should I eat now and spoil my dinner?” Tara made an executive decision: we’d get some baguettes and soup for an impromptu picnic in the park.

As we closed in on Prospect Park, I scanned for options. There were some small bodegas that didn’t look like they would have the goods and some restaurants that mocked me with the smell of delicious—but slow—food. Luckily, when we hit 7th Ave and 13th street, I spotted our savior, Union Market.

Upon entering I was greeted with a gorgeous display of red ripe tomatoes, yellow corn and greens. A few steps further and I saw the most diverse offering of mushrooms I had ever seen in Brooklyn. Around the corner were dizzying towers of even more colorful and exotic food items.

I had clearly found a gourmand’s funhouse. I quickly lost Tara in the tight maze-like aisles of the market. Turning a right at a display of specialty oil, I found myself face to face with a trove of olives and other oil-cured delicacies, along with a cache of toothpicks. I am not an olive lover, but the sun-dried tomatoes beckoned. I speared one, popped it my mouth and was rewarded with a burst of intense sweetness. Yummy.

Union Market had more fantastic distractions from the task at hand. I next found mounds upon mounds of cheese, glorious cheese, which entranced me. A noise broke my reverie and I noticed the cheese monger, whistling to himself while cutting thick wedges from an enormous wheel of cheese. In front of the counter were samples of his wares: sharp parmesan slivers, and a creamy goat cheese spread on some fresh French bread. Before I knew it, cheese samples had also found their way into my mouth. I asked the man about the goat cheese. He helpfully stopped his work and retrieved a small package from the display.

“You like it? It’s on sale for $5.99.”

I thanked him, but declined the cheese; it wouldn’t last the hours before I returned home. Turning the corner, I found Tara plucking some gourmet potato chips out of a barrel.

“These are good,” she said as she fed me one.

We walked past a deli counter stocked with a tantalizing display of salads and prepared foods, and found two bubbling soup pots. I had my heart set on some clam chowder, but all they had was vegetable and chicken soups. Luckily, Union Market offers many non-soup, picnic-ready options. We decided upon some house made roasted red pepper hummus. I led Tara back through the maze, jostling customers and white-coated employees, in a quest to reach the fresh bread to go with it. Along the way, I was gracious enough to show Tara the samples she had missed.

We wanted the focaccia but felt it was too expensive for its size. So we grabbed a large round loaf of golden crusted bread and paid for our late-afternoon snack. Though at this point we almost didn’t need it–as we walked out of the store, I patted my sample-satisfied belly.

Though Union Market is a bit expensive for weekly trips to stock up on basic groceries, it is a great place to get gourmet items for special occasions at home or a picnic in the park. For those readers participating in the Brooklyn Making Strides walk this Sunday, which will be near this stretch of 7th Avenue, I encourage you to stop by and sample.

Note: Anyone interested in making donations to Making Strides and/or sponsoring my team, The Pink Crusaders, please visit pinkcrusaders.org or the team donation page. All donations go to the American Cancer Society, the nation’s largest source of private, nonprofit cancer research funds.

Union Market
402 7th Ave
Brooklyn, NY 11215
(718) 499-4026

As I exited my lower Manhattan office building and crossed the street to Zucotti Park, a whistle from the World Trade Center construction site keened. It was lunchtime. A rumble in my belly, along with an advancing army of hardhats and suits in search of sustenance, told me I’d better plan my lunch strategy quickly.

However, looking at the wall of colorful food carts that lined the far end of the park, I was unexpectedly flummoxed. I had never eaten in the park before and had no clue what was good. I did a quick scan. There were a bunch of Halal carts offering chicken and gyro platters, a few fruit vendors, a farm stand selling pies and bread, and another cart obscured by a line of at least twenty people. I peered past the line to the sign on the cart which read “Sam’s Falafel.” A spicy aroma wafted by, triggering a reflexive “mmmmm.” I quickly ran to the back of the growing line that snaked through the park.

Sharp-looking office workers, camera-toting tourists, and massive construction workers waited on line patiently. I, on the other hand, with my stomach growling and my lunch break ticking away, fidgeted and surveyed the other stalls. None of them had a line like this. Others were getting their food quickly and happily devouring it within my sight.

“Why is this line so long?” I asked the guy in front of me.

“Sam’s is the best falafel.” he said matter-of-factly.

I waited two minutes more and looked ahead. There were still at least fifteen people before me. With my senses swimming in heady falafel smoke, I bailed on pita-wrapped chickpea nirvana and ran like a madman across Broadway to some more carts clustered around Noguchi’s red cube.

Once again, there were a bunch of carts but only one with an enormous line. I approached a man on the line. “Can you get good falafel here?”

The man shook his head, “No my friend, this one is good for chicken. That is where you get the best falafel.” My eyes followed his outstretched arm to a cart with a line only about five deep, Alan’s Falafel. I gave my thanks, joined the line and soon a man whom I assumed was Alan poked his head out of the cart and asked for my order.

“Hey, I heard you had the best falafel.”

Alan beamed, “You better believe it. Seventeen years around here.”

I ordered a falafel sandwich with everything. Alan smiled as he worked, proudly showing me each item as he tossed it in the pita: hummus, baba ghanoush, tzatski, ripe tomato, a big juicy hot pepper, hot sauce, and of course lots of plump falafel patties.

He wrapped it in foil and put it in a brown bag along with a crispy homemade pita chip. “You’re gonna to be back,” he said with a wink as I handed him three dollars.

I walked back to the park, plopped down and hauled out my sandwich. It was colossal. I unwrapped it and breathed in all the falafel goodness. The falafel was pungent and crispy with the perfect amount of herbs and heat. The fresh pepper exploded. The tomatoes were sweet. The hummus was savory. The smoky baba ghanoush, which featured big chunks of eggplant rather than the familiar mush, was a delicious addition.

I looked over at the long line for Sam’s Falafel and noticed that the people were staring jealously at me. “Alan’s,” I said and dreamily took another bite.