Archive for November 14th, 2008

Sweet wines don’t receive the same respect as other varietals, but they can be as complex, delicious, and deserving of admiration as their dry counterparts. Made by halting fermentation halfway through the wine making process—before all the sugar is converted to alcohol—these wines stay sweet because they are essentially part juice. A pleasing touch of sugary juice makes “off-dry” wine a wonderful start to any party, perfectly quaffable as your guests arrive.

St. Urbans-hof is a low-alcohol German Riesling with a fresh and appealing tartness. Like most German Rieslings, St. Urbans-hof is noticeably sweet at first sip. Comparable in taste to Moscato, this honey-forward cousin to the Italian bubbly is very smooth. A distinctly light body gives this bottle a very airy feel, though without the bubbles. As a rule, alcohol is what gives wine its body: the higher the alcohol content, the more viscous and syrupy-textured the wine. A great analogy is to think of the body of a wine on a similar scale as milk. For example, one percent, whole milk, and heavy cream all share the same flavor qualities, but its the thickness and richness of the liquid that varies. German Riesling is the skim milk of wine, and St. Urbans-hof is no exception.

The sweetness of this bottle is complemented by a citrus-like tartness, creating a fresh and breezy wine. St. Urbans-hof has moderate notes of granny smith apples and lemons upon opening, with a bouquet that mellows out to show softer white peach and melon qualities as you sip. High levels of acidity make this wine undeniably refreshing and a bit less sugary-tasting than other sweet Rieslings you may have tried. Because St. Urbans-hof is both light and sweet, it is ideal for pairing with similarly light and sweet dishes—this would be perfect with pre-turkey crudité, fruit, and cheese, or after dinner with a slice of spiced pumpkin pie.

Available in New York at Astor Wines & Spirits for $12.99