GASTRONORMOUS

Pelaverga, Vigna di Terre Rosse - 2004
The Pelaverga is a little-known grape cultivated in the Piedmont region of Northern Italy, and is one of the region’s relatively affordable hidden treasures. Famous for its dark Nebbiolo grapes, Northern Italy’s Piedmont region is most closely associated with tannic wines like Barolo. Generally speaking, cottony tannins in any wine are produced by the grape skins. Because Pelaverga is a thin-skinned grape, these wines are not tannic, but uniquely light, fresh, and balanced for Piedmontese reds.

Pelaverga wine is typically clear ruby-red in color, has scents of tart cherries with notes of peppercorn, and possesses a lightness and restrained acidity atypical for a wine of this high alcohol content. Resolved tannins and little acidity make this wine perfect for sipping or pairing with appetizers, light meats, and fish.

Vigna di Terre Rosse displays all these classic varietal characteristics. Vigna di Terre Rosse is shy upon opening, with appealing grapefruit aromas, but within a couple of hours reveals complex and vivid notes of strawberries and cider. This label is fruit-forward, spicy, and has a strong and tart aroma. Perfectly juicy, with hints of clay and minerality following on the finish.

Trying Vigna di Terre Rosse’s Pelaverga reinforces the remarkable breadth and variety of Italian wines. The color of this wine alone, a transparent red reminiscent of cranberry juice, is delicate and distinct. Remarkably airy and smooth, with a thin mouth-feel, this uncommon wine is worthy of any taster’s attention.

[$19.99 at Astor Wines & Spirits]

Please welcome Dion Benetatos to Gastronormous! Dion was born and bred in New York City, and sojourned in Atlanta and Athens (Greece, not Georgia!) before returning here to live in Manhattan’s Union Square area. His Mediterranean lineage pretty much dictates that food and wine be an important part of his life, but he has taken things to the next level by enrolling in sommelier training. I am very excited that Dion will be contributing wine reviews to Gastronormous. I know you will enjoy his reviews, which I will post on Fridays, just in time for your weekend wine-buying. Cheers!

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