GASTRONORMOUS

I don’t know about your local farmer’s market (or backyard garden), but this year my market has been selling the most gorgeous heirloom tomatoes. Last week I bought some small and intensely flavored Black Prince variety tomatoes, some big and sweet Great Whites, and plump and juicy Red Brandywines.  With this sudden glut of tomatoes in my fridge, I decided to do two riffs on one of my favorite uses for fresh tomatoes: the caprese.

The list of ingredients for these two salads is almost identical, but you will find that the sum of their parts add up quite differently.

Gastronormous Caprese

Many caprese recipes do not call for balsamic, but I find that, used in moderation, it adds a little something special to this now commonplace Italian menu item.

If you happen to have a bottle of 40 year-aged balsamic languishing in your cupboard, by all means use it here. But if a $100 bottle of vinegar is not in your price range, do it my way: use a reduction of grocery store balsamic. The result of reducing the vinegar might not fool the palate in a head-to-head taste test against the real thing, but I promise this thick, rich, and sweet substitute will wow your cocktail party guests (or, you know, your spouse)!

1 cup balsamic vinegar
approx. 1 lb piece of fresh mozzarella (a bit bigger than a baseball)
1-2 heirloom tomatoes, depending on size (I used half a Great White and a whole Black Prince)
10-14 large fresh basil leaves
2 T good quality extra virgin olive oil
salt and pepper

Heat balsamic in a small saucepan over medium-high heat until boiling. Immediately reduce heat to low and simmer without stirring until vinegar is the color and thickness of dark molasses, about 15 minutes.Take off heat and let cool to room temperature (do not refrigerate!).

Slice tomatoes and cheese into 3/8-inch slices. Cut these in vertical halves (this is optional–it looks a little more elegant if the pieces are kept whole, but it is easier for guests to serve themselves and eat if smaller; if the tomatoes are small, do not cut slices in half). Lay out slices of tomatoes and cheese on the cutting board and sprinkle with salt and freshly ground pepper (taste the mozz first–if it is really salty, just use pepper; be sure to salt the tomatoes, though–it helps draw out the juices).

Arrange the tomato and cheese slices in an alternating pattern on a serving platter. Slip a basil leaf between each layer (ie, tomato-basil-cheese-basil-tomato, etc.). Drizzle with olive oil. Drizzle with just a couple teaspoons of the reduced balsamic and serve (do this right before serving or else the balsamic will be absorbed by the cheese and won’t look as pretty!).

Serves 4-6. Serve with (toasted) bread, if desired.

Brooklyn Panzanella

This is really a cross between a traditional bruchetta, which doesn’t include cheese, and a panzanella, which generally utilizes a lot more olive oil than I call for here. Here, the tomatoes are the true star, and the fresh mozzarella plays a supporting, but essential, role. Because the tomatoes are cubed they release a lot more juice than when cut into thick steaks for caprese, and that juice helps create a very flavorful dressing.

3 c heirloom tomatoes, medium dice ( I used Great Whites and Red Brandywines)
1 small garlic clove, minced*
1/4 cup basil leaves, torn (or chiffonade, if you are feeling fancy)
3 T extra virgin olive oil
1 T balsamic vinegar
salt and pepper
1 c cubed fresh mozarella
12 3/4-inch slices of baguette

Toss together tomatoes, garlic, basil, oil, and vinegar. Season to taste with salt and pepper, and give another quick toss. Cover and refrigerate for at least 20 minutes but not longer than 3 hours. Before serving add cheese and toss well, ensuring that it is coated with the tomato-y dressing that formed through maceration.

Arrange 3 slices of bread on a small plate and top with about one cup of the salad. Spoon some extra dressing over the top. Drizzle with a little extra olive oil. Repeat with the rest of the bread and salad.

Serves 4.

*Resist the temptation to go for a larger clove–you don’t want the garlic to overpower the sweet tomato flavor.