GASTRONORMOUS

A few years ago, my friend Em, who grew up in Texas, introduced me to pickled okra. Specifically, Talk O’ Texas brand pickled okra (the company produces two products: okra pickles and liquid smoke. That is their entire product line, which is pretty gutsy and awesome). Ever since, pickled okra has been for me a special sort of object of obsession that only things which are very difficult to obtain are (like, say, white truffles or authentic Birkin bags). You see, up here in Yankee territory, okra in just about any form isn’t much appreciated, and pickled okra is especially hard to come by. Whenever I happen across a jar in a store, which is rarely, I am compelled to buy it.

About a year ago, I read about a cool local company called Rick’s Picks that specializes in all things pickled (traditional cucumber pickles, green beans, beets, etc.), including a concoction called smokra, a spicy pickled okra with smoked paprika (hence the smah in smokra). I was intrigued. I went to stores that carried the line, even the huge Red Hook Fairway, and while they had some Rick’s Picks products, none had the smokra. I went everywhere in New York–and the city seemed determined to deny me.

I finally gave up on the all-consuming search and went on to concentrate on other things like, I dunno, planning my wedding. Then, a few weeks ago, the quest for smokra all but forgotten, I went into the little corner store in my new neighborhood, and there exactly at my eye level in the refrigerator case: smokra. The price was steep, at $10.95 (really? for a dozen okra in brine?), but, really, I had no choice but to buy. As they say, where there is smokra, there is a fire in my belly (that is what they say, right?).

When I got home, I agitated the jar and, with the delight of a child shaking a snowglobe, watched the deep red paprika disperse throughout the brine. I cracked it open and tried a spear. Hm. It sure was different. I wasn’t sure I liked the very smokey smokiness of the paprika in the brine. It seemed to overpower the other ingredients with its distinct musky flavor. The clear, bright voice of the whole red pepper in the Talk O’ Texas version allows the okra pickles to sing more than the raspy, thick voice of the smoked paprika in Rick’s Picks version. Also, Talk O’ Towns’ okra is crisper, which is a plus.

I must add that as I have worked my way through the jar over the past weeks, the smokra has grown on me a bit, but still, I think the next time I see Talk O’ Texas okra pickles, I will buy with renewed appreciation and vigor.