GASTRONORMOUS

I have long been one to prefer a rich Cabernet Sauvignon or spicy Zinfandel to a Merlot. But I must admit I felt sorry for Merlot winemakers when the movie Sideways cast a sorry blight upon the varietal (and elevated Pinot Noir beyond where it might or should otherwise stand). For years before Sideways, Merlot had the reputation for being one-note, “mellow” to the point of blandness, or worse, muddled or bitter. It also has suffered the slander of being deemed by those in the vinto-know as “accessible.” Surely, in so rarefied a field as viticulture this can not be meant as a compliment. Indeed, a quaffable wine adored by the masses is an easy mark for the disdain of oenophiles.

But I have found a merlot that is complex! rich! and best of…wait for it…inexpensive! Plus, it has a reproduction of a really beautiful art nouveau poster for a label. This confluence of traits in a Merlot is unusual to say the least, and who’s to say it isn’t a miracle of Dionysus that Cycles Gladiator 2005 Central Coast Merlot [$9.99] is so satisfying and rich, with berry flavors, a pleasant hint of herbaceousness, and truly velvety in mouthfeel. Now, let’s be honest, this is no 1787 Château Lafitte Bordeaux, but it is an immensely enjoyable wine, Merlot or no, especially for the price.

Postscript: I am terrified to report that it doesn’t seem to be as easily found as it once was. My local wine merchant hasn’t stocked it for over a month, which I didn’t think much of until I noticed the winemaker’s website claims only 14 cases remain in their supply. So, hie thee to thy local wine purveyor and ask for it. I promise you won’t regret it.